Art of making neckties



A118. 1934- J. WEISBAUM 1,970,786

ART OF MAKING NECKTIES Filed Feb. 12, 1931 6 Sheets-Sheet l I INVENTOR.

ATTORNEY5.

1934- J. WEISBAUM 1,970,786

ART OF MAKING NECKTIES Filed Feb 12. 1931 s Sheets-Sheet 2 1 N VEN TOR.

Ja k

A TTORNEYb.

Aug. 21, 1934. 4. WElsBAUM 1,970,786

ART OF MAKING NECKT IES Filed Feb. 12. 1931 a Shets-Sheet 4 13 Jada mm INVENTOIR.

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A TTORNEYS Aug. 21, 1934.

J. WEISBAUM 1,970,786

ART OF MAKING NECKTIES Filed Feb. 12, 1951 6 Sheets-Sheet 5 Win ' ATTORNEYS 21, 1934- J. WEISBAUM 1,970,786

ART OF MAKING NECK'IIES Filed Feb. 12. 1931 GSheets-Sheet 6 INVENTOR.

Jada QQAQ GMwQ/w A TTORNEYSI Patented Aug. 21, 1934 UNITED STATES ART OF MAKING NECK'IIES Jack Weisbaum, Cincinnati, Ohio, assignor to The Weisbaum Bros. Brower Company, Cincinnati, Ohio, a corporation of Ohio Application February 12, 1931, Serial No. 515,277

20 Claims. (01. 112-2) My invention relates to the art of making neckties,'and to a machine adapted for use in accordance with this new art.

Heretofore there have been two methods of manufacturing neckties. The first relates to the manufacture of what are known as hand-made ties, and the second relates to the manufacture of what are known as machine-made ties. In order to understand my new art, I will describe briefly the method of manufacturing ties of these two types.

Hand-made ties are made by stitching, with a concealed, loose stitch, a. resilient lining within the tie. The thread which is stitched within the tie is drawn out at the ends, and knots are tied a short distance from where the thread emerges from the fabric of the tie, so that when the tie is tied, if the lining slips out of place relative the outer cover fabric, the loose knot will allow suiiicient play of the lining within the tie to prevent the formation of wrinkles. The general type of tie of the hand-made variety is clearly described in United States Patent No. 1,447,090.

Machine-made ties are manufactured by inverting the cover fabric of the tie and stitching, on a. sewing. machine, a resilient lining to the lapped edges of the inverted fabric. After the stitching of the lining is completed, the cover fabric is turned outside in, so that the proper surface of the fabric will be on the outside. Ties of the machine-made type are much more likely to become wrinkled in the knot forming portion, and the ties ordinarily do not hang in as smooth, unrullled condition as the hand-made ties.

The art forming the subject matter of my invention consists in placing the tie lining in alignment with the lapped edges of the inverted cover of the tie, and then folding the lining and cover in a series of lateral pleat-like folds or loops. A needle carrying the thread is then extended in one movement through the entire tie and lining while the tie is held in the laterally folded condition. The thread is then pulled out to extend slightly more than the length of the lining, and 's. knot is tied at the end of the thread. While still holding the tie in its laterally folded condition, the needle is then withdrawn, the thread is broken, and a knot is tied in the broken end of the thread. The tie is then pulled out to its full length and turned outside in. In the folding of the tie, in order to simulate a hand-made tie in the arrangement of the stitches, it is another feature of my invention to arrange the folds irregularly so that the thread, in passing through the lining and fabric, will extend in a series of irregular stitches which may be as loose as desired.

Briefly, it is the object of my invention to make a tie having all the advantages of a hand-made tie by a variation of the machine method of manufacture heretofore in use, and to thus provide hand-made appearance and serviceability at a machine-made cost.

A-further object ofmy invention is to provide a machine which will enable the manufacture of ties in accordance with my new art, to which I have applied the name of Custom Made", at a cost comparable to the cost heretofore required for machine manufacture.

The above objects and other objects to which reference will be made in the ensuing disclosure,

I accomplish by that certain method and by the mechanical combination and arrangement of mechanism ofwhich the following is a description. 7

Referring to the drawings:

Figure 1 is a side elevation of the preferredtype of machine in open condition.

Figure 2 is a side elevation of the machine shown in Figure 1 with the bellows-fold forming mechanism drawn up 'to the stitching end of the machine. Y

Figure 3 is a plan view of the machine in open condition, with the position occupied by the tie and liner indicated in dotted lines.

Figure 4 is a detail sectional view taken along the lines 4-4 of Figure 1.

Figure 5 is a side elevation of one type of needle.

Figure 6 is a side elevation of a modified type of needle. .7

Figure 7 is a detail perspective view showing til}: construction of the bellows-folding mecha- Figures 8, 9, and 10 are diagrammatic side elevations showing the position of the folding mechanism in the various stages of tie. manufacture. t t

Figure 11 is a detail perspective view of the needle carriage.

Figures 12 and 13 are side and end elevations, respectively, of the members forming the bellows-folding mechanism.

Figures 14 and 15 are side and end elevations,

respectively, of the members for keeping the 1 bellows-folding mechanism in proper alignment.

I have shown a table 1, mounted on suitable supporting legs 2-. A cable drum 3 is mounted on a shaft 4 journaled in brackets 5. On the shaft i there is a ratchet wheel 6, with a trip pawl 7,

and since the ratchet 6 is mounted fixedly on the shaft 4, when the pawl 7 is engaged. the drum 3 will be prevented from rotating. A hand wheel 8, having a handle 9 extending therefrom, provides the means for rotating the shaft 4.

Extending between the legs 2 of the machine there is a pair of slide bars 10. On the slide bars sleeves 11 are slidable from which sleeves is extended the pusher head 12. Secured to the pusher head on one side is the end of a cable 13, which passes over an adjustably mounted pulley 14, then around the drum 3, where the other end of the cable is secured to the opposite surface of the pusher head 12. A pair of foldplate guide rods 16 are secured to brackets 1'7 at the stitching end of the machine, and they extend through the brackets 15 at the opposite end of the machine, and are tensioned by means of thumb nuts 18. 7

Referring to Figure 7 for the detail construction of the folding mechanism, I have shown a series of fold plates 19 arranged in diagonally inclined staggered position in a bellows-like formation. The fold plates have eyelets 20 formed in the ends of the hinge rods 21, by which the fold plates are supported slidably in spaced position on the guide rods 16. The fold plates have tubular hinge members 22 which engage on the hinge pins 21.

Chains 23 extend from the pusher head 12 to the brackets 17 at the front end of the machine, and the position of the fold plates is determined by the particular chain links which the hinge pins 24 engage. These hinge pins connect the tubular members 25 at the lower ends of the fold plates.

A frame 26, hinged at 26a on rear extensions of the brackets 15 and 17, has a rod 27 on which spacing plates 28 are slidably mounted by receiving the rod 27 in slots in their front end parts. Extending up from the pusher head 12- is a spacing plate pusher bar 29, and a chain 30 extends from the pusher bar 29 along the front side of the frame member 26, and the front ends of the spacing plates 28 engage spaced links in the chain 30, so that the spacing plates can either be arranged exactly in the middle of the opening between the fold plates, or at slightly variant angles to an exactly intermediate position between the fold plates. The rear ends of the spacing plates 28 are mounted as will later be described. The frame 26 is provided with a handle 31 so that the spacing plates may be moved down into position extending down into the bellows-fold openings between the fold plates.

At one end 'of the table, I have shown the needle holder carriage 32, which is mounted in slideways 33 on the table 1, and may be moved to a position close up to the brackets 17 by means of a handle 34 which slides the carriage by means of an eccentric link mounting 35.

Slidably mounted in the carriage 32 there is a needle holder slide 36 having a slot 37 therein, which engages a needle guide plate 38, to which is preferably welded a needle 39 of the type shown in Figure 5, or a needle 39a of the tubular type shown in Figure 6. The needle holder carriage has a slot 40 in which the needle and needle guide plate are slidably mounted.

A spool 41 for a supply of thread is conveniently arranged so that the thread may be drawn through a guide eyelet 42, and from there to the eye in the needle 39. The needle holder is slidably actuated by means of a lever 43, which is mounted for pivotal movement relative to a link 44 mounted on a post 45.

The aligning plates 46, are suspended from the fold plates 19 by having tubular lugs 47 which embrace the hinge pins 24, and the aligning plates 46 have upward rear extensions 48 which are pivoted to the spacing plates 28, as indicated at 49, in alignment with the hinges 26a or frame 26, so that the weight of the plates 46 tends to keep the plates 28 in substantially vertical planes, whether raised rearwardly or lowered forwardly to extend between the fold plates 19. In the latter position the plates 28 rest on the front fold plate guide rods 16. The pivots 49 permit a swiveling movement of the plates 28 laterally to a limited extent. The spacing plates 28 have notches 28a that fit over the rods 16 when the plates rest on the rods. I

In order to provide means for accurately positioning a tie to be manufactured on the fold plates I have provided a pivotal frame 50 hinged to the brackets 15 and 1'7 at the front, having a gauge bar 51.

The bellows-folding fold plates are provided with spaced grooves 52, through which the needle passes during the time that the thread is being inserted through the tie and liner. In order to prevent the needle working up, a series of retaining pins 53, mounted in tubular holders 54, are indicated so that during the time the needle is being inserted, the pins 53 may be pushed across the grooves 52 so as to prevent the needle from coming up out of the grooves during the stitching operation.

Referring particularly to Figure 3, the operation of the machine will now be described. The hand wheel 8 is rotated so as to move the pusher head 12 to wide open position. The guide frame 50 is then swung up so that the guide bar 51 lies along the top edges of the fold plates near their front ends. The outer cover fabric indicated in dotted lines at 55 is folded with the fabric inside out and with the meeting edge portions of the fabric that are to receive the thread, as indicated at 56, lying along close to the guide rod 51 which is so located that these portions are thus aligned with the needle 39. Pins 57 extend up from the fold plates to hold the tie in position. The liner indicated at 58 is then laid with one edge in alignment with the meeting edges of the cover fabric with its edge portion in position to be sewed to the cover fabric edge portions. The guide frame is then swung down moving the guide bar 51 out of the way. The frame 26 is then swung over so that the spacing plates 28 register substantially in the V- shaped openings between the fold plates predisposing the tie and lining to fold down between these plates 19. The handle wheel 8 is then turned, and the pusher head 12 is drawn up to the extreme right of the machine, as indicated in Figure 2. The tie and lining will then fold down between the plates 19 and will thus be drawn into a series of pleat-like folds. The frame 26 is then swung up out of the way. The retaining pins 53 are then pushed in to cover over the gaps in the tops of the grooves 52. After the frame 26 is swung back, it may be advisable to advance the pusher head 12 the additional amount permitted by removal of the spacing plates 28 to crowd the tie into as tight pleated folds as possible.

The needle carriage 32 is then swung over so that the end is close to the fold plates. The lever 43 is then actuated and the needle holder slide is advanced, which causes the needle 39 carrying the thread, to pierce through all the folds of the tie and lining within the aligned edge portions thereof. The operator secures the end of the thread from the needle and pulls out the thread substantially to the length of the lining of the tie. The needle slide is then withdrawn, and the thread is withdrawn from the needle and broken. Knots are then tied in the ends of the thread. The aligning pins 53 are then pulled back to clear the grooves 52, and taking one end of the tie it may be withdrawn from the folding mechanism. The tie is then pulled out to its full length, and since the thread is slightly longer than the length of the liner, the cover fabric meeting edges will be stitched together, and with the lining will be retained with a series of irregular stitches, the length of the thread allowing substantially entire freedom of movement between the liner and tie. The tie is then drawn so that the inside will be outermost whereupon the two cover fabric edges are inside with the lining, and it is ready for pressing or such other steps in the manufacture as are ordinarily carried out.

By varying the spacing of the spacing plates by the connection to the chains, irregularfolds in the tie may be made, and the stitching will be irregular so that for practical purposes, upon examination of the back of the tie, where the stitches may be seen by straining the cover portions laterally, the difference between the tie stitched on my machine and the usual hand-made tie cannot be distinguished. It will further be-obvious that the tightness of the folds of the tie may be varied so that the stitches may be inserted either tight or loose, as desired.

The art of making ties, forming the subject matter of the invention described herein, contemplates inverting the cover fabric, folding it, aligning one edge of the resilient lining with the meeting edges of the folded fabric, forming the inverted cover and lining into a series of pleatlike folds, inserting a needle and thread through the folds within the cover and lining portions adjacent the aligned edges, to stitch the cover edges together and attach the lining to the cover, drawing through the thread to slightly greater length than the length of the lining, tying knots in the end of the thread, pulling out the tie to its full length, and then pulling the tie outside in so that the proper surface of the cover will be exposed.

While I have shown a preferred type of machine for the manufacture of my custom-made tie, other mechanical arrangements will occur to those skilled in the art of manufacturing ties in accordance with my invention, and I claim the art broadly herein.

Having thus described my invention, what I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is:-

1. A necktie making machine provided with means for folding the fabric and lining of a tie in a series of folds, said means comprising plates arranged in a bellows arrangement with hinges at the tops and bottoms of said plates, said plates having aligned grooved portions providing clearance for the passage of a needle therethrough.

2. A necktie making machine provided with means for folding the fabric and lining of a tie in a series of folds, said means comprising plates arranged in a bellows arrangement with hinges at the tops and bottoms of said plates, said plates having aligned grooved portions providing clearance for the passage of a needle therethrough,

and means for preventing the misdirection of a needle through said grooves.

3. A necktie making machine having means for" forming the inverted fabric and lining in a series of lateral folds, means for holding said lateral folds, a needle for inserting a thread through said folds, a needle carriage provided with a guide slot, and a, guide for said needle comprising a thin plate slidable in said slot.

\ 4. In a device for holding neckties to be stitched, two rows of spaced elements each to contact a respective side of a necktie fabric, the elements of one row being offset from the elements of the opposite row, said rows being so mounted that the elements of one row may pass between the elements of the other row, to produce a series of folds in the fabric, and then to withdraw to admit a needle and thread to be passed successively through the folds of the fabric, the elements of the two rows being relatively movable lengthwise of the rows to decrease their spacing and the spacing of the folds of fabric, to minimize the necessary travel of the needle, and means to determine the spacing of the elements of the respective sets prior to their movements to decrease their spacing.

I 5. In a device for holding neckties to be stitched, two rows of spaced elements each to con tact a respective side of a necktie fabric, the elements of one row being offset from the elements 105 of the opposite row, said rows being so mounted that the elements of one row may pass between the elements of the other row, to produce a series of folds in the fabric, and then to withdraw to admit. a needle and thread to be passed successively through the folds of the fabric, the elements of the two rows being relatively movable lengthwise of the rows to decrease their spacing and the spacing of the folds of fabric, to minimize the necessary travel of the needle, and flexible means connected at intervals to elements of the respective sets to determine their spacing prior to their movements to decrease their spacing.

' 8. In a necktie making machine, a row of elements to contact a side of a necktie fabric, arranged with spaces between the elements, said elements being relatively movable lengthwise of the row to decrease their spacing, and means having a movement into said spaces, limited to a minor part of the depth of the spaces, to predispose the fabric to fold between the elements by the space decreasing movements, thereby producing a series of folds in the fabric in close succession for passage of a needle and thread successively through the folds with a minimum of needle movement.

7. In a necktie making machine, a row of spaced elements to contact a side of a necktie fabric, said elements being relatively movable lengthwise of the row to decrease their spacing, means to predispose the fabric to fold between the elements by the space decreasing movements, thereby producing a series of folds in the fabric in close succession for passage of a needle and thread successively through the folds with a minimum of needle movement, said elements having recesses adjacent to the folds for passage of the needle through the folds, and means positionable across certain ones of said recesses to guide the needle.

8. In a machine for making neckties, a series of elongated plates, pivots connecting the longitudinal edges of said plates, a guide for alternate pivots along which the series of plates is collapsible with the other alternate pivots downward 150 from the guided pivots, elements hung on the respective downwardly positioned pivots, and members pivoted to corresponding ends of said elements to swing down into the respective spaces between the guided upper pivots.

9. The method of stitching together the meeting edges of a tie fabric which comprises disposing the strip of fabric in straight extended condition, then pressing upon its opposite sides at alternate intervals of its length simultaneously at all of said intervals, thereby predisposing the fabric to form opposite series of alternately directed folds transverse to the fabricwithout displacing its meeting edges, then collapsing and completing the folds, and then passing a, thread through one of the series of folds adjacent to said edges, of length to be slack when the strip of fabric is unfolded into straight condition, and then unfolding said fabric into said condition.

10. The method of stitching together the meeting edges of a tie cover fabric. together with an edge of a tie lining aligned with said edges which comprises disposing the fabric and lining in their aligned relation, in straight extended condition, then pressing upon the opposite sides of the assembly of fabric and lining at intervals of its length simultaneously at all of said intervals, thereby predisposing the fabric to form opposite series of alternately directed folds transverse to the assembly without displacing its meeting edges, then collapsing and completing the folds, and then passing a thread through one of the seriesof folds adjacent to the aligned edges, of length to be slack when the I assembly is unfolded into straight condition,

and then unfolding the assembly into said condition. v

11. The method of stitching together the meeting edges of a tie fabricwhich comprises disposing the strip of fabric in straight extended condition, then pressing upon its opposite sides at alternate irregularly spaced intervals of its length simultaneously at all of said intervals, thereby predisposing the fabric to form opposite series of alternately directed foldstransverse tothe fabric without displacing its meeting edges, then collapsing and completing the folds, and then passing a thread throughone of the series of folds adjacent to said edges, of length to beslack when the, strip of fabric is unfolded into straight condition, and then unfolding the fabric into said. condition, the pressing at irregular intervals resulting in irregular lengths of the stitches to simulate ties made bythe customary method in which the stitches are formed with the fabric in extended condition andknown as custom or hand made ties.

12. In a necktie making machine, a row of spaced elements 'to contact a side of a necktie fabric, said elements being relatively movable lengthwise of the row to decrease their spacing, a second row of spaced elements movable to enter its elements in respective spaces between the elements of the first row, and relatively movable lengthwise ofthe rows andmovable to withdraw its elements from said spaces, and means to limit the degree of entrance of 'said elements of the second row into said spaces, whereby said entrance predisposes the fabric to fold 'by'the space decreasing movements but is not sufficient to cause withdrawal of the fabric from said spaces with the elements of the second row after the spaces have been decreased, so that, upon withdrawal of said elements of the second row from said decreased spaces, the fabric is left in closely folded condition for passage of a thread through an aligned series of folds thereof, for the purposes set forth. a

13. A machine as set forth in claim 12, comprising a gauge element movable to lie along the first mentioned row of elements at the entrances to the spaces, along which the edges of the fabric may be located, and comprising a needle guided to pass along said row across said entrances, said gauge element being definitely stopped in its movement so that it lies along said row in spaced relation to the line of movement of the needle to locate the fabric so that the needle will pass through the fabric in spaced relation to its located edges when the fabric has been folded as set forth and the second row of elements has been removed as set forth, said gauge element being movable in opposite direction for removal from said first row of elements for admission of the second row of elements to the spaces of the first row.

14. A machine as set forth in claim 12, in which the elements of the first row are provided with means for holding said elements in irregularly spaced relation prior to the space decreasing movements, and the elements of the second row are provided with means for holding said elements of the second row in irregularly spaced relation corresponding to the irregular spacing of the elements of the first row, prior to the space decreasing movements, whereby the stitching resulting from the passage of the thread will be irregular, for the purposes set forth.

15. A machine as set forth in claim 12, comprising a needle guided to pass along the row across the entrances to the spaces.

16. A machine as set forth in claim 12, comprising a needle guided to pass along the row across the entrances to the spaces, mechanism at one end of the row for imparting the passing and a return movement to said needle, and mechanism at said end comprising an extension operatively connected to one of the elements at the opposite end of the row,- whereby operation of said mechanism causes the space decreasing movements of the elements.

V 17'. In a device ,forholding neckties to be stitched, two rows of spaced elements each to contact a respective side of a necktie fabric, the

elements of one row being offset from the elements of the opposite row, said rows being so mounted that the elements of one row may extend between the elementsof the other row for only a minor part ofthe depth of the latter elements, only sufficiently to predispose the fabric to form a series .of folds, and then to withdraw without pulling the fabric with them, to admit a needle and thread to be passed successively through the folds of the fabric, the elementsv of the two rows, before withdrawal of the one row, being relatively movable lengthwise of the rows to decrease their spacing and complete the folds of fabric in closely spaced relation, to minimize the necessary travel of the needle.

1 18. In a device for holding neckties to be stitched, two rows of spaced elements each to contact a respective side of a necktie fabric, the elements of one row being offset from the elements of the opposite row, said rows being so without pulling the fabric with them, to admit a needle and thread to be passed successively,

through the folds of the fabric, the elements of the two rows, before withdrawal of the one row, being relatively movable lengthwise of the rows to decrease their spacing and complete the folds of fabric in closely spaced relation, to minimize the necessary travel of the needle, and so that after withdrawal of the one row of elements the elements of the other row may have their spacing further reduced to hold the fabric in folded condition while the needle and thread are passed through the folds.

19. In a machine for making neckties, a row of spaced relatively movable elements to receive a strip of fabric lengthwise of the row, means movable into the spaces for only minor parts of their depths to flex the strip into a plurality of the spaces between the elements simultaneous- 1y, only for minor portions of the depths of the spaces, and means to draw the elements together,

forming opposite series of complete transverse folds in the fabric where it was flexed for passage of a thread through one of said series of folds.

20. In a machine for making neckties, a row of spaced elements to receive a strip of fabric lengthwise of the row, means to pass into the spaces between the elements only for minor portions of the depths of the spaces and fiexthe 'strip into a plurality of the spaces between the elements simultaneously, only for minor portions of the depths of the spaces, predisposing the fabric to form in an opposite series of transverse folds, and then'to pass out from between said elements, said elements being movable to de-- crease their spacing and collapse the initially flexed fabric with its folds complete and close together for passage of a thread through one of said series of folds.

JACK WEISBAUM. 

